Our last day in Turkey we went to the huge Saturday bazaar.There was pile after pile of fruits, vegetables, nuts, and spices lining the streets.Further down were stands with heaps of clothing, scarves, and other textiles.The sights and sounds, the hustle and bustle, the haggling, the vibrancy of the colors, all combining to form a rhythmic harmony, this is Turkey.To say our farewell to Turkey we had a group dinner at the Old House Garden restaurant.I wanted to keep eating stuffed eggplant boats, not get a real boat and go back to Greece.
After over 3 hours on a bus in a week already full of traveling, my expectations for Pamukkale were pretty high.I was not disappointed.Pamukkale, meaning “cotton castles” in Turkish, looks like it is covered in snow from a distance.The “cotton” was formed from calcium minerals left by flowing water.Hot springs and travertines are scattered all along the cliff and have some of the smoothest mud I have ever felt.If I didn’t have my camera I would have smothered myself in it, I had to be satisfied with squishing it between my toes.Yet another surreal experience in Turkey.
Back in Selcuk Thursday we went to Ephesus.Even more amazing than the huge stone theaters or the towering entrance to the library is the fact that what we saw was not even 15 percent of the ancient city.The rest of the city lies under the hills next to the excavated section, archeologists still haven’t figures out how to uncover the rest of the city without destroying it or what they have already uncovered.For lunch we all went to a place they called the tree house.We climbed up into an elevated pavilion where we all sat on pillows and ate Turkish pancakes.The pancakes are more like tortillas with savory or sweet filling. After lunch Kate and me went to Hamami, a Turkish bath.After changing into towels that felt more like small tablecloths we went into a hot marble room.An old man pointed to a bench for us to sit, dumped buckets of water on our heads, then pointed for us to lie down on the raised marble in the middle of the room.There were three guys there about our age chatting like they were at a café or bar.After soaking up the heat of the stones I was exfoliated with a rough lufah, I could feel the grime washing away.Then on another marble slab with another old Turkish man I was soaped up and rubbed down again.After a quick rinse in a cold shower I went upstairs for the oil massage.The massage was deep and felt good after a busy week.None of it was awkward or uncomfortable, but it is weird to say that the last time anyone saw that naked was an old Turkish man.
A 1 hour bus from Selcuk to Izmir, 1 ½ hour flight to Kayseri, followed by another 1 hour bus to Cappadoccia seemed like nothing given the drastic change in the landscape.As our plane landed the buildings looked like colorful scattered legos, then as we entered Cappadoccia the rolling hills dramatically changed into stalagmites resembling elf houses.Our hotel room was in a cave with the selves carved right into the wall, and a roof top patio where we were served breakfast as we watched the hot air balloons take off.
To celebrate our first night, Kate, Patricia, and I found a cozy corner in Goreme Restaurant.We took off our shoes and settled onto out pillows next to the old man that was singing and playing his oud and violin.The atmosphere would have been enough, but the food made the night even better.Our wine came out in a clay pot, the bread was steaming, and the hummus was the best I have had since going abroad.We sat for hours eating, drinking, and watching the old man play and sing.
Tuesday we explored sites around Cappadoccia.Our first stop was the underground city where people use to take refuge during wars.The city went down eight stories and had everything from stables, to living quarters, to meeting halls, to churches. The farther down we went the narrower and shorter the hallways got, I almost had to crawl to get through.We stopped to taste the wine of Cappadoccia at a small wine tasting room, Kocabag wine from 2008.Then we visited a ceramics workshop where we watched a master spin a pot in less than 5 minutes.The showroom was overwhelmingly colorful, with each piece differently patterned various colors.Our last stop was the Goreme open-air museum.We walked between various stalagmites that were mostly churches with frescos inside that had been partially destroyed by the iconoclasts.There were also kitchens black from smoke, and dining halls with the table and benches carved right from the rock of the cave.
That night we went to “Turkish night.”I was excited to see whirling dervishes and other traditional dances, but got a tourist show instead.The dinner was bland and some of the costumes looked like Halloween costumes from a department store.We still had a fun night, but next time I’m in Turkey I want to see a real ceremony.
For our last morning in Cappadoccia we drove out to Rainbow Ranch to go horseback riding.Seemed like the thing to do considering Cappadoccia means, “land of beautiful horses.”The horses were beautiful, and very spunky.Some of the horses seemed on the verge of being crazy, and had a lot of personality.I rode an Appalachian, who at one point decided he didn’t want to wait for the rest of the group and would rather roll in the dirt.At first I thought he was going lame, I managed to get off as her fell over with only a few scratches only to realize that her was gleefully rolling in the dirt.Jerk.Brushed off and hopped back on for the rest of the ride.They took us through a valley under pigeon houses that people had carved into the rocks and through a small village with cobblestone streets.
Breathtaking.The closest I can come to explaining the sunset and my feelings on the ferry to Turkey.Behind the ferry the sun forced rays through the clouds and a double rainbow hovered above the coast of Turkey.
Hotel Canberra welcomed Kate, Patricia, and me with an incredible pink room.Tat restaurant, run by a Turkish family hosted our group dinner.All of the people that waited on us were obviously related, and just as equally welcoming.Once the food started coming it didn’t stop.Baba ganoush, hummus, spicy tomato dip, and stewed eggplant in tomato is where I stopped but the servers kept it coming with stuffed mushrooms, mushroom puffs, fried cheese rolls, and skewered meats.The best part was the never-ending plate of steaming flatbread you could see them rolling out and baking in the restaurant.
Sunday morning we headed into the hills to Sirince, and old Greek village.Colorful shops selling with textiles, scarves, and jewelry, old women knitting next to their hand made crafts, and cozy rooms with fireplaces serving as tasting rooms for fruit wines lined the narrow cobblestone paths that seemed to get even narrower and disappear the further up the hill you got.Wanting to
see more of the countryside than taking a van back to the hotel would allow, some of us decided to walk the 9 miles back.On the way we saw a random crab crossing the road, and a small turtle stuck in a plastic bag.Odd.Other than the out of place wildlife we passed fruit orchards and rural Turkey.The walk took about 2 hours, and was worth ever second.
That night in need of some relaxation we hung out at Musa’s drinking apple tea and playing with his costumes before heading out to eat.Turkish pizza and an Efes (Turkish beer), enough said.
The first leg of our journey to Turkey was to the Greek island of Samos.It seems the further from the Greek mainland I am the more I like the islands, maybe it’s the farther I am from Athens.Samos immediately had a different feeling than other islands.The architecture is more varied with elements of Venetian and Turkish styles.Although I enjoy white washed buildings with blue shutters, it was a refreshing to see more color variation.Exhausted and hungry from the long ferry rides all we managed to do before collapsing into bed was walking to the waterfront to eat dinner.Our waiter was very enthusiastic about the island and drew all over the tablecloth map, showing us all the best places to visit.
That night the atmosphere spat out a storm with incredible force.Constant flashes of lighting illuminated the streets that were transformed into rushing rivers.The rain fell in sheets, rhythmically pounding on the window as the thunder rattled them.
In the morning the weather seemed to have calmed, so we walked to the Samos archaeological museum and saw among other artifacts, a 20ft kouros.Then, we all hoped in cars and stared up the mountains for a drive around the island to see other villages and historic sites.We only made it as far as Pithagoria before the atmosphere started stirring again.We took shelter in a café as the wind whipped the pouring rain and once again turned the streets into rivers.Then came the hail and stronger wind, snapping the awning off of the café.Once the skies calmed we decided to go back to the port town, Vathi, to wait for the ferry to Turkey rather than risking getting caught in the middle of another raging storm.
Even after all of the Cycladic islands I have been to by now, I always end up coming back to Paros thinking it’s the best…until now.Even though I only spent one night there, Naxos has taken over as my favorite.It immediately felt less touristy, even at the port.Then as we made our way through the winding streets its unique character began to show even more.
Our first night we were free to wonder.Walking along the coast we saw the most amazing sunset, better than Ia.After that, our first night we were not very Greek.We went out for Mexican food at Picasso.The food was amazing, maybe in part because I haven’t had Mexican in over a month, but it definitely hit the spot.After eating at least a couple meals worth of food and taking our complementary tequila shots we made our way to a Mexican bar.Pablo, a Brazilian server, tried to teach us how to salsa…tried.When we got back to our hotel, even though it was 3am, me and Kate sat out by the pool for about an hour getting life advice from Moses, a little grey kitten.
Sunday we got to see more of
Naxos’s vast landscape.First our bus winded its way to the temple of Demeter, the goddess of grain.Demeter and Dionysus, the God of wine and fun, are the most glorified deities on the island due to its dependence on agriculture.
Then we visited Apiranthos, a little village nestled inland among the rolling hills.The village was slow paced and peaceful, not at all a tourist destination.A few friends and I broke off from the group to wonder.On one path we met an old woman carrying some apples.She got really excited when Patricia wanted to take her picture.She grabbed Kate by the arm and lead her up the path so they could sit by some potted flowers for the picture.She was grinning from ear to ear.Then she asked for a pen and disappeared into her house.She wrote down what I think is her name and address.After disappearing into her house again she returned with pictured that other travelers must have sent her, I now have a mission to uncover what she wrote and mail her a picture. Up another path we decided to try some of the grapes that were growing over the path, delicious.Back to the bus, our last stop was to see a giant kouros.
Studio classes are really starting to pick up.We had our first painting critique two weeks ago.I surprised myself at what I could produce if I put enough time and effort into it.Our first assignment was a triptych; I used felt tip pen and tea stain to do three part of a tree.Other people’s work was really impressive and inspired me rather than making me feel intimidated.Now we’re diving straight into oil painting.
Our first photo critique was also two weeks ago, with another already last week. It was interesting getting used to a new darkroom, but I finally found my favorite enlarger and got back into the swing of things. It was extremely rewarding to actually print after all of the shooting I have been doing.Our next assignment, due this last Friday was two different themes with 4 photographs each.I thought I was on top of my game and went to Naussa Sunday to shoot.Not so fast, my film was blank.Trying to make up time I got up before the sun on Monday so that I could at least make up so shooting time in Parikia.Tuesday morning back in the lab at the crack of dawn…blank.I WILL NOT LET MY CAMERA BE BROKEN!One more roll.Finally whatever I was doing wrong, or what ever was happening with my camera is better.I missed out on three rolls of film, but feel better knowing my camera is ok.Besides, it’s a good excuse to go back to Naussa!It all ended up all right, I had my prints ready for critique.
Before critique on Friday, three friends and me decided to get up at 6:30am and climb a mountain, it was good to have a little adventure before a long critique session.We left when it was still dark and the sunrise was incredible.At first it was subtle and simple started to get lighter, than the sky turned a delicate pink and orange casting its majestic glow all across the island.The hike was definitely worth all of the bushes that look like they have needles in them.
